More Culture in Chiang Mai

This week we have savoured more of the cultural delights of Chiang Mai. We went to watch a play by The Gate Theatre Group called 'The Gin Game' by D L Coburn. This is a two-act, four-scene play about a woman in her twilight years, Fonsia Dorsey, who enters a "home for the aged" and is for a while saved from melancholy by the crusty charm of Weller Martin. Weller encourages her to play gin, but becomes increasingly infuriated when she keeps winning, until his pent-up rage and her continuing needling, build up to a terrible confrontation. The play was very well acted and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

We also went to a concert given by the pianist Bennett Lerner. This was the first of a series called 'Bennett Lerner and Friends Present Noctures and Barcarolles' - featuring the music of Gabriel Fauré and his contemporaries. At this concert, he was joined by the Thai violinist Tasana Nagavajara, who is the leader of the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Bennett Lerner played the first three of the Fauré Nocturnes plus works by Chabrier, Tchaikovsky and Brahms (the latter two were for violin and piano). We were so fortunate to be able to attend this wold-class performance for only £3!!


On Sunday we went to the Pong Duet Geyser (rather aptly named given the smell of the sulphur!). The underground temperature of this geyser is between 176°C - 203°C and it shoots out of the ground to between 1 and 2 metres in height at an amazing 90°C - 99°C. (See photo above) Our intention was to stay at the resort, but, although they said we were welcome to stay, the restaurant was closed for refurbishment and the spa was closed. There was one pool open, but the water was so hot that David almost lost a toe testing it! We decided to carry on to Pai. On the way we came across the bridge over the river Pai - also built by British prisoners of war, but not as well known as that other bridge.

The Bridge over the River Pai built by British Prisoners of War in 1942.

Enjoying a beer as the sun goes down over the River Pai.

In Pai we stayed at Ban Tawan (The House of the Open Door). Our room overlooked the river and seemed an idyllic setting. Unfortunately, just across the river was an all-night disco with a thumping base; added to which the people in the next room to us spent most of the night arguing very loudly. I was very irritated, but even more so when David managed to sleep through the lot!!! We did, however, manage our swim in a hot spring at the Pai Hotsprings Spa Resort. (See photo).

Our holiday in Thailand has now come to an end and I am actually writing this in Bangkok airport as we wait for our flight to Amsterdam. We have had a great time and, as usual, Glynn has been the consumate host. We will miss Chiang Mai - especially the massages we have enjoyed at the 'Nimman House Thai Massage for Health and Relaxation' - a most wonderful experience!

Cultural Chiang Mai

The workshop for the years seven and eight at Lanna International School went very well. Our Musical Director, David, gave a talk on Renaissance music illustrated by various madrigals sung by our group. It was a very well thought-out talk and very informative.
We have also been to two concerts; one was by the Hwa Chong Institute String Ensemble from Singapore and the other by The Chiang Mai Youth Philharmonic Band & Symphony Orchestra - who were joined by the Sacred Music Singers from Payap University. Both concerts were most enjoyable and are only a tiny sample of the many cultural delights on offer in Chiang Mai.
On Sunday we attempted to go to the Hill Tribe Museum, but it was closed; so we decided to visit the Hill Tribe people themselves in their village on Doi Suthep Mountain. Unfortunately the mountain was shrouded in mist, so we didn't have fine views, but we wandered around their village and visited their own, smaller, museum. We watched several women embroidering articles for sale, and one drawing intricate patterns to be used as a template for embroidery; they really are very highly skilled. (See photo of embroidered goods for sale.)
We are now in the rainy season, and not a good time for tourism, but, with not so many tourists about, shopping is once more a pleasure! The cooler temperatures also enable us to walk more and David even managed to get a run in at six o'clock this morning. He ran around the moat (each side is one-and-a half km) plus the two km there and back. While he was running, he noticed two Tai Chi groups in action. This is such an interesting city!

Chiang Mai Revisited

Our flight to Chiang Mai, from Norwich via Amsterdam and Bangkok, was very pleasant. From Amsterdam, we flew China Air. The plane was only half full, so we got to spread out on the seats, making the flight far more enjoyable than it normally is. The last time we flew this route, we travelled with British Airways; by the time we arrived in London, from Bangkok, the plane resembled a travelling slum with disgusting loos and litter everywhere. Not so this flight! On our China Air flight, the loos were continually being cleaned and all refuse was taken away as soon as the crew could see that we were finished with it. We were very impressed. We are actually looking forward to our flight home.

As soon as we arrived, I was up and running. We arrived early on Thursday morning, I was allowed to rest for that day; on Friday we had a rehearsal for the Spirit House Singers madrigal concert; on both Saturday and Sunday, we had concerts to perform - one in The Spirit House Restaurant (with a free buffet supper - see photo) and the other in the Chiang Mai University Art Gallery. We also had a whole afternoon rehearsal for another concert, by the Chiang Mai Choral Society International, on Saturday when we sang Gilbert and Sullivan's Trial by Jury, followed by a selection of more popular music.

In addition to all these music rehearsals, Glynn had to renew his visa; so, last Monday, we headed to Chiang Khong, on the border with Laos (see photo of Glynn at the gateway to Indo-China), and returned on Tuesday. Now all our concerts are over. We only have one more engagement and that is a workshop for Renaissance Music to be held at the Lanna International School on Wednesday of this week.

Breakfast in Chiang Khong, overlooking the Mekong River (If you enlarge the photo, you can see the blue roof of the Laotian customs post across the river - labelled)

While Glynn and I were busy with all these music engagements, David flew to Zimbabwe, upon our return from Glynn's border run, for the funeral of his sister, Sheelagh. Unfortunately, because of the difficulty of ferrying people around (lack of fuel) and housing people (lack of food and power), the number of family attending from outside the country was limited, so I was unable to go. However, the people of Mutare gave Sheelagh a magnificent send off. David said he was very moved by the tremendous support, especially by the MDC, and most notably by the large group of African women who defiantly wore their MDC t-shirts and sang beautifully and harmoniously as part of the ceremony. (NOTE: As these women were leaving the funeral, some of them were arrested by the police and accused of attending an illegal political gathering! Brian quickly rallied his lawyer and went to the police station to get them released. Remember, this is like the Labour party in Britain having members of the Conservative party arrested for trying to oppose them in an election!) David will be back on Thursday, having managed to fit in a quick visit to Jane and family.

Chiang Mai Revisited

The Spirit House Singers madrigal concert

Our flight to Chiang Mai, from Norwich via Amsterdam and Bangkok, was very pleasant. From Amsterdam, we flew China Air. The plane was only half full, so we got to spread out on the seats, making the flight far more enjoyable than it normally is. The last time we flew this route, we travelled with British Airways; by the time we arrived in London, from Bangkok, the plane resembled a travelling slum with disgusting loos and litter everywhere. Not so this flight! On our China Air flight, the loos were continually being cleaned and all refuse was taken away as soon as the crew could see that we were finished with it. We were very impressed. We are actually looking forward to our flight home.

As soon as we arrived, I was up and running. We arrived early on Thursday morning, I was allowed to rest for that day; on Friday we had a rehearsal for the Spirit House Singers madrigal concert; on both Saturday and Sunday, we had concerts to perform - one in The Spirit House Restaurant (with a free buffet supper - see photo) and the other in the Chiang Mai University Art Gallery. We also had a whole afternoon rehearsal for another concert, by the Chiang Mai Choral Society International, on Saturday when we sang Gilbert and Sullivan's Trial by Jury, followed by a selection of more popular music.

Chiang Khong, on the border with Laos

n addition to all these music rehearsals, Glynn had to renew his visa; so, last Monday, we headed to Chiang Khong, on the border with Laos (see photo of Glynn at the gateway to Indo-China), and returned on Tuesday. Now all our concerts are over. We only have one more engagement and that is a workshop for Renaissance Music to be held at the Lanna International School on Wednesday of this week.

Breakfast in Chiang Khong, overlooking the Mekong River 

(If you enlarge the photo, you can see the blue roof of the Laotian 

customs post across the river - labelled)

While Glynn and I were busy with all these music engagements, David flew to Zimbabwe, upon our return from Glynn's border run, for the funeral of his sister, Sheelagh. Unfortunately, because of the difficulty of ferrying people around (lack of fuel) and housing people (lack of food and power), the number of family attending from outside the country was limited, so I was unable to go. However, the people of Mutare gave Sheelagh a magnificent send off. David said he was very moved by the tremendous support, especially by the MDC, and most notably by the large group of African women who defiantly wore their MDC t-shirts and sang beautifully and harmoniously as part of the ceremony. (NOTE: As these women were leaving the funeral, some of them were arrested by the police and accused of attending an illegal political gathering! Brian quickly rallied his lawyer and went to the police station to get them released. Remember, this is like the Labour party in Britain having members of the Conservative party arrested for trying to oppose them in an election!) David will be back on Thursday, having managed to fit in a quick visit to Jane and family.

Sheelagh James 1952 - 2008

David’s beloved sister, Sheelagh, passed away as the result of a car accident in Mutare, Zimbabwe, on Friday 30^th May 2008. May her dear soul rest in peace.

Who could have dreamed, when you sat among us,
Amusing and radiant;
That now we would be mourning your passing,
Your seat forever vacant.
Dear Sheelagh, as wife, mother and sister,
Your love was ever constant,
And we, who also loved you in return,
Still feel you ever present.
Now our hearts, heavy with sadness, long to
Relive that precious moment
When we were carefree and laughed together,
Before your lips fell silent.
But you will remain forever with us,
A memory, so brilliant
It will never fade with time or distance.
You are still here, just… absent.