A Beautiful Day on Burgazada

Every time we passed by Burgazada on the ferry, we wondered about this church. 

Now we know that it is the Greek Orthodox Church of St John.

On Tuesday, we spent the day on Burgazada, one of the Princes Islands off the coast of Istanbul, in the sea of Marmara. Burgazada is the third largest of the 9 Princes Islands, and is a lot quieter than either of the two largest islands, Büyükada oand Heybeliada. We have been meaning to visit this island for a long time, as we have been curious to see the Greek Orthodox Church of St John, that towers over the settlement there. The day was glorious and we deliberately took the slowest ferry from Bostancı, the one that visits Büyükada and Heybeliada first, so that we could enjoy the sea air.

David surveys the scene.

On arrival in Burgazada, our first task was to have a full Turkish breakfast in one of the beach-front cafés, before touring the island in a horse drawn buggy. The tour didn't take too long as the island is only about 4 square kilometres in size! But the trip was well worth it, as we saw some spectacular views and, travelling in a horse-drawn buggy, always induces in me a feeling a calm and tranquillity.

David enjoying his typically Turkish breakfast.

Our carriage awaits.

After our tour, we walked up to the church, known locally as the Aya Yani. The original church is thought to have been built in 876, although its present form is a result of major restoration in 1896. The church is very beautiful inside with lots of valuable icons, and other religious artifacts. Interestingly, it is one of three Greek Orthodox Churches on the island, alongside only one mosque and a synagogue.

The richly decorated iconostasis that separates the Sanctuary from the nave.

The pulpit and lectern.

One of the many beautiful icons.

A painted wooden panel depicting Saint John.

Burgazada was once entirely Greek, and the Patriarch Methodius was exiled here. Other notable inhabitants were Antigonus, one of Alexander's generals, and the Emperors Vasil, and Michael III. Today, the island is also noted for Sait Faik Abasıyanık, a famous Turkish writer, who made the island his home. Burgazada has 1,500 inhabitants in the winter, which swells to 15,000 in the summer when people from Istanbul arrive to take up their summer residences.

Turkish Fishermen on the Sea of Marmara.

Rain or shine, it's all happening here in Istanbul!

The vuvuzela has come to Istanbul and is being sold all along Bağdad Caddesi. Fortunately, all we can hear is the odd mournful bleat, as no one seems to have fully mastered the art of blowing one yet. I await the coming football season with trepidation. Will the vuvuzela become an integral part of Turkish football matches or not? For those who missed the graphic representation of the first vuvuzelas, I reproduce it here (unashamedly lifted from Vanessa's Facebook page). It is too funny!

The vuvuzela: annoying people since 1660.

It is summer here in Istanbul, but what a strange summer it is. The weather ranges between searing heat and cooler days with pouring rain, which is surprising, as the climatic patterns in this part of the world should be hot and dry in the summer, and cold and wet in the winter.

On good days our local beaches are full and there are far fewer people in the streets. Many people have already left Istanbul for their summer homes.

Locals enjoying a lazy day at the beach

Some have taken to the water to escape the heat.

This is good news for the traffic, which is managing to flow swiftly along our street, making it difficult to cross. David and I were standing on the edge of the road waiting for a break in the traffic the other day, when a taxi driver, who was parked nearby, got out of his cab and escorted us across the road. He just held up his hand and stopped the traffic. I think he thought we we were being too cautious.

On sunny weekends, we often hear bands playing as they pass by, leading a group promoting one product or another. They often give out free samples too. These were giving out free caps.

...and these two were giving out free Menthos peppermints.

But today it is raining, so there are no bands, but plenty of people shopping (a non-stop activity in our street).

Les Parapluies d' Istanbul

A Week of Celebrations in Istanbul.

We have had a very interesting week. Last Thursday we went to a lecture about the Crimean War victory celebrations of 31 January 1856, that were held in Pera House, Istanbul (the present British Consulate). The lecture was given by Dr Steven Richmond, of Istanbul Technical University, in the room next to the very same ballroom where the original celebrations took place. We learned that, to celebrate the ending of the Crimean War, the British Ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, gave a fancy dress costume ball for more than 800 guests.

Dr Steven Richmond who gave the lecture.

A very special guest at the victory celebrations was none other than Sultan Abdülmecit himself. This was reported widely throughout Europe, as this was the very first time an Ottoman leader had ever visited a foreign embassy. Other guests included Ottoman ministers, British, French and Sardinian officers, the Greek Patriarch, the Armenian Archbishop and the Jewish Chief Rabbi. It was a very splendid occasion, and no one failed to notice that the Sultan and his entourage all drank champagne, along with the other guests.



This is one of a pair of exquisite chandeliers in the ballroom at Pera House. The Chandeliers were originally meant as a gift to the Tsar of Russia from Queen Victoria, and were actually on their way when the Crimean war broke out. They were quickly diverted to the embassy in Istanbul, where they remain to this day.

We came across these Peruvians on our way to Pera House.

Last Saturday we went to David's pre-school Fun Day. Everyone had a great time, and there was lots of food and plenty of activities for the children.

All the little girls wanted their faces painted.

The parents made an wonderful selection of typically Turkish food

A magician entertained the children on Fun Day.

On Monday we attended the Queen's Birthday Party. In past years this has been held at the British Consulate, but no more, due to the parlous state of Britain's finances. This year it was held in the garden of the parsonage, thanks to our dear friend Canon Ian Sherwood. It was such a fun evening. Unfortunately, I forgot to take my camera, so sadly there are no photos, but I can assure you that the evening was a great success and the Queen would have been proud.

NOTE:
Today is Paddy and Irene's 45th Wedding Anniversary. We wish them well and may they have many more years together!

This week in Bağdat Caddesi, Istanbul

Tuncay Sanli of Stoke City.

We are often to be found eating at our favourite restaurant, Café Cadde. It's very popular and usually full to bursting, but because we are regulars we can usually get a table. We've heard that it is an IN place to be. We didn't realise just how IN, until we found ourselves sitting next to Tuncay Sanli, the Stoke City player. With his £5,000,000 transfer fee from Middlesbrough, he can afford to eat anywhere, and he chose our local. He came over to speak to us - such a nice man!

David with Tuncay Sanli

A great thing about living in Bağdat Street is that there is always something going on. We woke up one day last week to find a big hole in the pavement, where some workmen were replacing leaking pipes. Amazingly, it was all cleaned up by the evening, with the pavement completely restored.




On another day, hundreds of cyclists rode by, completely blocking the road and preventing the traffic from moving. I think they were making a statement that the roads are for cyclists too; although weaving in and out of traffic on a bicycle is not my idea of fun - especially in Istanbul - more like suicide!


Our summer series of concerts has begun again. Every Sunday evening throughout the summer, Mithat, a nearby menswear shop, hosts a free operatic concert. We have grandstand seats on our balcony. It's great fun, especially as we are far enough away to join in the singing.