Ivory Lodge, Hwange, Zimbabwe. Day 3

Even before we arrived at the park, we saw a cheetah standing beside the road. It was staring at some kudu on the other side of us. We watched as it stalked closer and closer to its unsuspecting prey, before suddenly running at them. Fortunately for the kudu, the cheetah missed, and they escaped.

We carried on into the park where Peter thought there might be lion. We weren’t disappointed; he spotted them crossing an open piece of ground.

We followed the lion as they headed for their waterhole

 These four females were playing like kittens as they drank

We stayed to watch the lions that, once sated, sloped off into the bush, so we continued with our drive. We stopped off at the same waterhole where we had seen a cheetah the previous day. Peter turned off the engine and scanned the horizon. He noticed a very large baboon, sitting on top of an anthill, barking loudly. He told us this was a warning cry, and that it meant a predator was nearby. Sure enough, we spotted it hiding among some rocks under a tree. Apparently, a troop of baboons can frighten cheetahs away, so when they hear the bark, the baboons gather together ready for the chase.

The gathering of the troop

We couldn’t believe our luck, it was the same cheetah we had seen the day before.

It crossed the savanna…

…and once again strolled nonchalantly in front of our vehicle…

…before making for the shade of his favourite tree.

We noticed zebra and impala edging nervously towards the water, and so did the cheetah. It sat upright and stared at them.  But obviously decided not to take on the baboons, and flopped down again.

We had been so privileged to see all the game we did, and to have such a knowledgeable, and enthusiastic guide. And lest you imagine that this is some small park, with captive animals, Hwange National Park is 14,651 square kilometres in size, and all these animals are wild, and in their natural habitat.

That evening, Joel, the Manager of Ivory Lodge, organised dinner for us under the stars.

 What a lovely way to spend our evening

Everyone had fun.

It was a perfect end to a perfect day.

Elizabeth Coughlan

Ivory Lodge Hwange, Zimbabwe. Evening Day 2

These Giraffe were just standing beside the road as we drove to Hwange game park

After our most amazing early morning game drive on our first day at Ivory Lodge, we set out on a sunset drive the same day. We headed for a viewing platform where we were to have sundowners while watching the game come down to drink.

On the way we saw the huge Presidential Elephant Herd

The herd was awarded a presidential decree in 1990 to demonstrate Zimbabwe’s commitment to responsible wildlife management. The decree was intended to protect these elephants against future hunting and culling: unfortunately this is no longer enforced, and the herd is being depleted by poachers.

Our view of the waterhole

As you can see, there were mainly elephant at the waterhole, and the water was very low. When the waterhole is full, it extends all the way to the trees beyond. Everyone is waiting anxiously for the rains to come.

One of the elephants found a puddle of fresh water,

and began digging down into the ground, while two others stood by waiting

Two of them chased one of the elephants away,

and then eagerly began drinking

Then they decided to fight over who could drink the water

The winner stood guard over his supply of water,

and his adversary slowly turned and walked away

We settled back and watched more game coming down to drink.

We saw Zebra…

…and Wildebeest

…as well as Baboon

We got back to Ivory Lodge just as the sun was setting,

to find Jameson, the Head Waiter, ready to serve our pre-dinner drinks

After we had all gone to sleep, we were suddenly woken by Michelle Keefe (PA to Marketing Department of the company) to see the jaw-dropping sight of hundreds of Buffalo, gathering round the lodge's waterhole. I will let her give her own account. It can be found here.

What a wonderful trip we were having. It’s definitely one I would want to repeat over and over again.

Elizabeth Coughlan

Early Morning Game Drive from Ivory Lodge Hwange, Zimbabwe.

Peter, our guide, was passionate about wildlife, and was a mine of information 

about the plants and animals in this part of Africa

We were up before sunrise for our early morning game drive with our guide Peter. We piled into the vehicle, snug under warm blankets against the chilly dawn, and set off for Hwange National Park. Our drive had barely begun before we came across some kudu. Peter explained that they are found in woodlands and bushlands, as they like to hide among the thickets. They are hunted for their meat, hide and horns, which are used in Africa for musical instruments, and symbolic ritual objects.

Kudu, hiding in the bushes

Just ahead of the kudu, we saw some impala. In contrast to the kudu, herds of impala are found in savanna, and open woodland. They can run very fast to try to outrun their predators. Their distinctive markings on the rear enable them to follow one another when they are on the move.

A group of impala

The long road to the National Park, running through thick bush on either side

We still hadn't even reached the park when we came across sable. They are majestic-looking beasts with long curved horns. They are known to use these horns to fight off predators.

Sable sheltering among the trees

We finally arrived at the park, having dilly dallied to take lots of photos. We arrived at just the right time, however, as Peter spotted a cheetah across the savanna. We stopped to watch, as other vehicles joined us to see what we were looking at.

The cheetah kept walking towards us…

…and crossed the road right in front of our vehicle

 …then went to sit in the shade under a tree only metres away.

We sat mesmerised by the cheetah, taking numerous photos, before it suddenly got up and wandered off. Wow! That was amazing!

From there we went to a platform, overlooking a waterhole. Peter had packed drinks and food, so we breakfasted at the hide, as we watched the animals come down to drink.

Unfortunately, Zimbabwe is waiting for the rains, and the waterhole was only half full. We felt sorry for the poor hippos, who were trying to submerge themselves under the water, before coming out to eat some grass.

Hippos coming out of the waterhole.

After good rains, the water should rise past the zebra in the background

We also saw this enormous crocodile, lying there among bleached bones…

 …and a herd of zebra

The day was wearing on, and it was time to return to Ivory Lodge for lunch. The sun was becoming brighter and hotter, and we had discarded our cosy blankets long before.

We drove back through the bush…

..but had to stop on the way to photograph these African Hornbill

This was only our first game drive, and we had already seen a wonderful selection of game, the cheetah being our first prize. After a wonderful lunch at Ivory Lodge, we all went for a siesta to prepare ourselves for our evening game drive. What would we see next?

Elizabeth Coughlan

Ivory Lodge, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

My view of the gorge from the Lookout Café

Day three of our trip was a busy morning for some of us, and a relaxing time for others. Most of our group decided to go white water rafting. I declined, mainly for two reasons – one being that I have heard the ride described as, “like spending the day in the dishwasher”, and the other is because once the ride is over, there is a 250 metre vertical climb out of the gorge. So I spent a calm morning drinking coffee, and admiring the view from the Lookout Café.

Once the bedraggled, but exhilarated, rafters had returned and eaten lunch, we returned to our hotel to collect our baggage, and drive to Ivory Lodge, on the edge of Hwange National Park.

The dining and lounge area of Ivory Lodge

Ivory Lodge is one of Zimbabwe’s prime safari lodges. I loved their mission statement:

“We welcome you to our little piece of paradise

and look forward to sharing our passion for wildlife with you.”

We certainly felt welcomed from the moment we arrived. Here, guests are accommodated in a series of lodges on stilts, all with a spectacular view of the lodge’s private waterhole. Everything during our stay was perfect; the wonderfully friendly staff, led by Joel, the manager; the gourmet food, the comfortable rooms; and above all, the stunning view.

Our lodge on stilts at Ivory Lodge

Our room, with the mosquito nets over our bed

My towels.

Barbs and Becca by the camp fire

Sundowners were by the campfire, overlooking the waterhole, 

where we could see game coming down to drink.

After sundowners, and a magnificent dinner, we went down to the hide, and sat quietly watching as elephant gradually came down to drink.

The elephant were so close, we could almost touch them

 We loved seeing the mothers with their babies

Wow! …and this was only our first evening at Ivory Lodge. The next morning we had booked an early morning game drive, so we all went early to bed, ready for the next day. We were fired up with anticipation, especially as Hwange is renowned for its high concentration and diversity of wildlife and birdlife species.

Elizabeth Coughlan