Whovi Wild Area, Matobo National Park, Zimbabwe

The natural rock formation named, “Mother and Child” in the Whovi Game Park

One day, while staying in Bulawayo we decided to drive out to the Matobo Game Park for the day. We chose the Whovi Wild Area because we hadn’t been there before. Although we didn’t see much game, the scenery was glorious, and we felt very privileged, especially as we hardly saw another person all day.

The country was waiting desperately for the rains.

We crossed this dry river bed, with not a drop of water to be seen…

…although as we drove along, we did see the occasional puddle,

in what should have been a flowing river...

…as we made our way to this hide, hidden among the rocks.

I wasn’t able to photograph them, but we met up with an anti-rhino poaching unit, armed with AK47s. They were recharging their phones with solar powered chargers, before going out on patrol. Their task is aided by the fact that Whovi has been entirely ringed with a rhino fence, so that these endangered animals can more easily be protected.

The view from our hide.

We did manage to spot some rhino from a distance

As we continued on our drive, we managed to see this duiker,

hiding in the undergrowth

Eventually we found this dam. Even though it is drying out,

it still has a beauty of its own.

It’s easy to understand why Matobo is considered the spiritual home of Zimbabwe when you experience the dramatic scenery that could almost belong to another world.

The word ‘Matobo’ means 'bald heads', and was the name chosen for the area by the great Ndebele King, Mzilikazi. He is buried in the Matobo Hills just a short distance from the park.

We came across a large expanse of water, and David wandered over to look at a couple of hippo.

I decided to stay in the car. We didn’t see any crocodiles, but they are sly creatures, and I didn’t want to take a chance. David is a very fast runner, and very fit, so he was braver than me!

The landscape is extraordinary. Everywhere you see huge rocks randomly balanced one on top of the other. Millions of years of erosion and weathering have shaped the granite into seemingly impossible structures that appear to defy gravity.

Balancing rocks in the Matobo Hills

Eventually, after thousands of years of erosion, the whole structure gives way, 

and the rocks come tumbling down.

We were surprised to see bundles of thatching for houses, gathered by locals.

They must have braved the wild animals to do this.

On the way out of the park we saw this sweet little Dassie (Rock Rabbit) 

peeping out from the rocks

How lovely to be staying in Bulawayo, within easy reach of this remarkable park. If you have never been to Zimbabwe, you should definitely have it on your bucket list. It’s a wonderful country.

Elizabeth Coughlan

Matobo National Park, Zimbabwe

Balancing Rocks in the Matobo National Park

Once back in Bulawayo, we visited Matobo National Park, where giant boulders teeter on top of one another in one of the most spectacular granite landscapes in the world. Since June 2003, this park has been named a World Heritage Site, and it is easy to see why, given its beauty and history. These huge boulders are the result of thousands of years of erosion.

Rhino hiding in the long grass

On our way into the park, we glimpsed the elusive rhino. This pair has been dehorned to protect them from poachers. Unfortunately, poaching is rife in Zimbabwe, often in connivance of those in government

We stopped off at a dam hoping to glimpse more game…

…but the dam was dry, and there was nothing but baboons

We were so happy that Michelle Keefe, who we met at Ivory Lodge, was going to be our guide. Her home is in Bulawayo, and she has studied the area extensively.

From the dam we drove to Nswatugi Cave, famous for its ancient cave paintings. The word Nswatugi is a   Karanga word, meaning the 'place of jumping'.  A local legend says God leapt from his home at Njelel Hill onto a nearby hill, briefly stepping on Nswatugi Hill, where he left his 'footprint' in the granite.

We climbed up over the granite rocks to reach the cave

Michelle was a mine of information about the cave

The paintings reflect the life of the San people,

the first inhabitants of this land that is now Zimbabwe

San hunters chasing a kudu

I especially liked these elegant giraffe

This lady can only be seen if you cast a shadow over her.

Michelle said she was a sort of calling card on the wall of the cave.

Michelle recounting the history of the San people as seen through their art

For the San people, dancing and music were very important. Through their ritual dancing, they could connect to the spirits of the world, helping them in bodily and spiritual healing, and success in hunting. Even today, this area is considered to be the spiritual home of Zimbabwe.

Walking back to the vehicles from the cave.

  

We were ready for lunch, so we put some steaks on the braai

Alison and Richard, waiting for lunch

Becca and Amy enjoying pre-lunch drinks

Barbs watching John, the braai expert.

David caught me tucking in to my steak roll. Yum!

This was our last trip with the Woltons. We were so sad to see them go, and hope to be able to catch up with them for more fun in the near future.

Elizabeth Coughlan