Photography Trek to Kadirga, Istanbul

Sokullu Mehmet Pasa Mosque

Although it was pouring with rain, the intrepid members of our photography club, braved the elements and travelled to Kadirga, an area of Istanbul. Our first stop was the Sokullu Mehmet Pasa Mosque, which was unfortunately closed, although we did have access to the courtyard.

This mosque, designed by Sinan the Architect, was built in 1571 in the name of the Sokullu Mehmed Pasa, a prominent Grand Vizier in the Ottoman period. It was built on the site of the Aya Anastasia Church dating from the Byzantine period.

The beautiful calligraphy over the entrance to the mosque

Intricate carvings in the wall of the mosque

One of our members decided to photograph the carvings from a different angle

We carried on walking through the wet, rainy streets running with water

We found some interesting graffiti...

...very artistic!

Many of the buildings in this area retain their original form...

...and the streets are quite charming...

...as are some of its inhabitants.

Despite the weather, we had a really interesting day. Thanks to everyone who braved the weather.

Elizabeth Coughlan

Photographing Kumkapi and Kadirga, Istanbul

Colourful lanterns in Kumkapi, Istanbul

On our second day of street photography with Thatcher Cook, we wandered through the Kumkapi and Kadirga districts of Istanbul. These are fascinating for their history, although now, Kumkapi especially, has become full of touristy fish restaurants. Despite this, the locals still manage to follow their traditional ways.

A street vendor sells rice and beans from his cart

A junk dealer wheels his barrow through the streets

Kumkapi (or Sand Gate) was the site of Kontoskalion Harbour, originally built by the Byzantine Emperor, Julian (AD361 - 363), and later becoming the city's naval base under the reign of Michael VIII Paleologus in 1261. In recent times, this harbour has served the fishing fleets bringing their catches from the Back Sea and the Sea of Marmara. There used to be a thriving fish market in Kumkapi, but this has recently been demolished, ready for new developments.

Entrance to the Church of Panaglia Elpida, Kumkapi

Kumkapi has always been home to a large Greek and Armenian population, and it grew in importance when the Armenian Patriarch moved here in the 17th century. In fact, the Armenians were in the majority here as late as the 1850s. Because of the Armenian and Greek influence in this area, there are some beautiful Christian churches. This is the entrance to the Church of Panaglia Elpida, dating back to the 15th century. We tried to go in, but were rebuffed, so I can only show the entrance.

Greek Church of Saint Kyriaki Kontoskaliou

We did manage to see the beautiful Agia Kyriaki, although we weren't allowed to take photos inside. This church is said to have one of the largest domes, and stands on the site of a sacred spring, dedicated to Saint Basil.

A homeless man sits with his possessions by an old Ottoman fountain.

 Sokullu Mehmet Pasa Mosque, Kadirga, Istanbul

Kadirga is a rather run down neighbourhood, dominated by a large mosque built by the architect, Sinan, for Esmahan Sultan, the wife of the Grand Vizier, Sokullu Mehmet Pasa, after whom the mosque is named. 

This stall sells sandwiches filled with meatballs (kofte)

This is an area largely ignored by tourists, so the shops and cafes retain their local flavour, despite the recent influx of Ethiopians and Russians. Many poorer neighbourhoods, such as this, will have only very basic cooking facilities in homes, so buying ready-made food is a way of life. Indeed, it can often be cheaper to eat out in Istanbul, than buy in all the ingredients for home-cooked meals.

The popular kebab shops are everywhere...

...and are often open late into the night

Elizabeth Coughlan